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Adapting Common Garden Tasks

Author: Sarah Pounders

Learning how to maintain a healthy garden provides a number of educational benefits for students with special needs. The daily activities draw on subject matter from core topics like science (e.g., understanding how plants grow and what they need), math (e.g., correct placement of plants and measuring of water), and language arts (ex: reading instructions and keeping journals about care). Monitoring and caring for plants also allows students to nurture and develop a respect for other living things. The following information defines some of the most common garden tasks and provides ideas for optimizing the learning experience for special needs students. (For general advice on preparing to work with this population in the garden and ideas for managing activities, please read Tips and Resources article.)


Watering

Under normal conditions, plants require about 1 inch of water per week from rain or irrigation. You want the soil around your plant to be moist, but not too wet (over watering can lead to a number of plant diseases). Feeling the soil is one of the best indicators of when it is time to water. Check soil moisture by poking a finger 1 inch into the soil; if it’s dry, it is time to water. Apply water at the base of the plant rather than on the leaves to decrease the possibility of disease. Water in the early morning, in the late afternoon, or on cloudy days to cut potential loss by evaporation. The best time is in the morning so that plants can dry off quickly.

A plant will also signal its need for moisture by wilting. If you check the soil around a wilted plant and find it’s already wet, the plant might be suffering from a disease (e.g., a fungal wilt). Let the soil dry a little and monitor the plant for a couple of days. If the plant still looks wilted, remove it and the soil around it to prevent the disease from spreading.


Adaptations:

  • Use small watering cans. Water is heavy and can be messy to move.
  • If using a hose, use one that is lightweight and keep water pressure to a minimum. Place stakes at corners of beds to keep hoses from being dragged over plants. Attach a spray nozzle to the hose to help control flow.
  • Be very careful not to flood walkways, which can lead to slippery conditions that are especially difficult for those with challenged mobility.
  • If hoses and watering cans prove to be difficult, install drip irrigation. Students can still turn the irrigation on and off and watch the water soak into the soil without the physical challenge of moving the water.
  • If watering on a regular basis is difficult for your group, install an automatic irrigation system to ensure healthy plant growth or place your drip irrigation on a timer.


Thinning

It’s common to sow more seeds in a pot or bed than can grow to healthy maturity. Once seeds germinate, you need to “thin” your crop by removing some of the seedlings so they don’t crowd each other. Although it is never easy to pull up or cut down seedlings you’ve nurtured, if you leave too many plants in a small space they will compete for resources and won’t grow to their full potential.

Adaptations:

  • Clearly demonstrate thinning for the students, and if possible work with them one-on-one while they thin to make sure they don’t accidentally remove too many plants.
  • Thinning by plucking individual seedlings can be a challenge even for gardeners with nimble hands. An easier method is to cut your seedlings back to soil level with scissors. This prevents root disruption and the potential of harming the plants you want to keep.
  • Limit the number of seeds a student plants to one per pot or spot in the garden. As a result, you may end up with some empty spots because seeds don’t germinate, but the student will have had the hands-on experience of sowing seed without the need to thin. (An option is to let them sow a few seeds per pot and then do the thinning yourself.)


Weeding

What we call weeds are simply wild plants that are growing where we don’t want them. It’s best to remove these “unintentional” plants because they will compete with your crops for nutrients, space, light, and water (and weeds often win because they are so hardy!). Pull weeds by hand or remove them by hoeing or cultivating around your plants, staying far enough away to avoid damaging the roots of your crop plants. With either approach, make sure the weeds' roots are completely removed.

Adaptations:

  • Make weed identification cards so students can clearly identify the weeds they need to remove.
  • Demonstrate the best way to pull the weeds before letting students start. If possible remain with students and limit the number who are pulling weeds to two or three students so you can provide ample guidance.
  • Try limiting weeding to one specific type of weed at a time. Keep a sample of that weed on display and let each child pull one sample to match it when you first get started.
  • Collect the weeds in one bucket or bag to keep debris in the garden to a minimum.


Fertilizing

Depending on the condition of your soil, you may need to provide additional nutrients for healthy plant growth. Common signs of plant malnutrition include yellowing leaves and poor growth. You can add nutrients by applying compost, organic fertilizers (e.g., fish emulsion), or synthetic fertilizers such as slow-release pellets. You might think that if a little bit of fertilizer will help your plant grow, a lot of fertilizer would result in an even better harvest, but the phrase “more is better” doesn’t apply to fertilizer! In excess, fertilizer can contribute to poor growth and plant diseases, and nutrients not captured by plants and soil can cause pollution of waterways and groundwater supplies.

Adaptations:

  • Applying liquid fertilizer or slow-release pellets may be hazardous for some students with control issues or chemical sensitivity. Instead of adding nutrients after plants are growing, build the organic matter and nutrient content of your soil before planting begins.
  • Worm castings make excellent fertilizer and may be easier to distribute than a liquid compost tea.


Mulching

Gardens benefit from the addition of two to three inches of mulch atop the soil. The mulch helps to slow water loss from evaporation, moderates soil temperatures, decreases soil erosion, and decreases the spread of soil-borne diseases. There are a number of different materials you can use as mulch, including shredded wood, straw, plastic, and newspaper.

Adaptations:

  • Make sure the mulch you choose does not inhibit movement or become a tripping hazard.
  • Demonstrate for students how to place the mulch around plants gently so that it does not damage stems.
  • Use small tools to transport and spread mulch to avoid injury to children and plants.
  • If debris in pathways could create a dangerous obstruction to the mobility of some students, avoid mulches that can easily float into paths from rainwater runoff, such as cocoa shell mulch.


Monitoring for Pests and Disease Problems

Insect and disease problems are easiest to control when caught early. Monitor your plants regularly for common plant insects like aphids and scale (small sucking insects that damage leaves, buds, and stems). If you find them while their numbers are small, you can keep their damage in check by using a high-pressure spray of water from a hose or by manually removing them. Also look out for spots on leaves, which are signs of fungal and bacterial diseases. Remove spotted leaves and throw them away (do not place in a compost pile where pathogens may remain to pass infection to other plants). Regular, close observation of your plants should prevent problems from escalating.

Adaptations:

  • Create identification cards to help students recognize the common insects in your garden.
  • Avoid using any type of pesticide. It is best to let nature find its own balance when working with special student populations.

Harvesting

The time to harvest varies by crop. Many lettuce and herb crops can be harvested throughout the growing season – just leave at least one third of the foliage so that the plant continues to grow). Root crops such as carrots, beets, and radishes are ready to harvest when the top of the root reaches an optimal size (carefully move soil from the top to check). Crops producing fruits, such as tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, and beans, are usually ready to harvest when the fruit is approaching the right color, and softening but is still firm to the touch. Some fruits, such as cantaloupes, strawberries and peaches produce a fragrance as they ripen. Harvest flowers for bouquets as soon as the buds begin to open.

Find harvest instructions for your crops in the NGA Food Gardening Guide.

Adaptations:

  • Post pictures of what ripe fruits and vegetables look like to try and prevent premature harvesting.
  • Set up guidelines so students know when plants can be harvested.
  • If you are concerned about students harvesting and sampling fruits and vegetables without permission, avoid plants with poisonous parts. (See our list of safe plants.)
  • At harvest time, make sure all students have a chance to share in the bounty so they can enjoy the rewards of their efforts.

For more general advice on preparing to work with this population in the garden and ideas for managing activities, please read Tips and Resources article

 


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