
Cultivating
Container Gardens
Before you
and your charges launch in, discuss your container-growing goals.
You might, for instance, hope to make gardening more accessible to
students with physical challenges by building tall wooden planters
or placing containers on tables or benches. Do you want to grow vegetables
to complement a nutrition unit, raise creatively potted plants to
sell or donate to the community, or beautify a courtyard or flagpole
area? Your answers to these questions will help guide the project.
1.
Considering Creative Containers 
Plants emerging
from terra-cotta or plastic pots, windowboxes, or hanging baskets
are common refrains, and they make great growing vessels. But
let's also think outside the box. Practically any type
of container can be used to grow plants as long as it holds soil,
can drain water, and is large enough to accommodate the plants
you're growing. You are only limited by your imaginations and
access to such places as attics, garages , and recycling centers.
Consider these planter possibilities: buckets, tubs, beach pails,
ceramic bowls, teapots, stacks of old tires, crocks, baskets,
ceramic flue tiles, half wooden barrels, crates, sinks and bathtubs,
toys (football helmet, dump truck, wagon). Better yet, have your
students brainstorm their own list.
Here are some things to consider when choosing containers:
The
larger the container, the larger the plant (or number of plants)
you can grow to maturity. Take vessels for veggies. A half
barrel planter can accommodate large tomatoes, squash, or eggplant,
with room to spare for small crops such as carrots or lettuce.
Five-gallon containers are fine for dwarf tomatoes, peppers, beans,
and other vegetables and herbs. You can raise a mini salad or
herb garden in an 18-inch (diameter) pot. Soil depth is also important.
Deep-rooted plants like tomatoes need at least 12 inches of soil,
but radishes can get by with as little as 4 inches. Windowboxes
should be at least 9 inches deep. (See the chart,
below, for more on container sizes.)
Think
about drainage and porosity when you choose containers.
For plants to have healthy roots, soil needs to drain well. If
a container lacks holes or other methods for drainage, water can
build up and roots can smother. On the other hand, if a container
dries out too quickly, plants can suffer. Because porous materials,
such as unglazed terra-cotta and wood, dry out faster than materials
like plastic, they have to be watered more often, but they have
the advantage of keeping plants from getting waterlogged. (Large
containers of either type retain moisture better than smaller
ones.) The materials you choose may depend on your climate, the
plants you're growing, and your willingness to water.
Note: Avoid using containers made of pressure-treated wood,
which is impregnated with toxic chemicals that can harm plants
and people. If you build your own wooden boxes, use rot resistant
wood, such as cedar, or treat your container with an exterior
grade paint or opaque stain to protect it from rotting.
2. Choosing Plants and Schemes
What do you envision spilling out of your containers? Incredible
edibles? Eye-appealing creations with complementary colors, textures,
and forms? What about theme gardens such as the following?
-
a barrel
full of salad with multiple colors of leaf lettuce, a bush cucumber,
a dwarf patio tomato, and some herbs
-
a tomato
sauce wheel barrow sporting a dwarf tomato plant in the center,
herbs such as oregano and basil on the sides, and onions between
the herbs
-
a scented
hanging basket with nicotiana, heliotrope, lavender, and geraniums
-
a series
of terra-cotta pots featuring an ethnic garden such as an Asian
planting of greens, radishes, cucumbers, eggplants, and scallions
Here
are some points to ponder as you plan:
Think small. When
perusing seed racks, packets, and catalogs, have your young detectives
identify words and phrases that fit the small-space bill: compact,
bush (especially with squash varieties), for containers,
tiny, dwarf, and so on.
Consider climate. Make
sure to pay attention to planting dates based on your climate and
frost-free period as you would with any outdoor garden. The benefit
of containers is that you can move them in or under cover if frost
or cold temperatures threaten (assuming they're not too heavy).
Select
for sunlight.
Choose plants according to the amount of sun available in
your prospective container garden location. Most vegetable
and herb plants you're likely to grow need at least six hours
of sunlight each day. Leafy vegetables such as spinach, cabbage,
and lettuce can tolerate a bit more shade; flowers vary. Check
catalogs, seed packets, and the chart
below for sunlight requirements. (If students experiment by
moving containers to maximize their daily sunlight, they'll
also learn something about the relationship between the Earth
and the sun!)
Consider
companions.
Plan to
put plants with similar needs (e.g.,
sun, shade, water, or fertilizer) in a given container. You
might also grow deep-rooted plants with shallow-rooted ones
because the combination will make better use of nutrients
and water.
Think
about going vertical! Some schools,
particularly those in urban areas, have saved space
and created delightful nooks by growing container
plants vertically. Consider creating garden vessels
for vining plants such as pole beans, cucumbers, gourds,
morning glory, clematis, sweet potato vine, star jasmine,
or passion flower. Challenge students to create a
trellis or supports and to figure out how to keep
an upright plant jungle well-watered and fed. Do they
notice any patterns in how plants climb or how tendrils
function? Can they coax the plants to change direction?
Hangers
On
When planning hanging flower baskets, think
about upright flowers for the center (calendula,
coleus, geranium, marigold, and zinnia, for instance),
trailers to cascade downward (cascading petunia,
lobelia, lantana, trailing fuchsia, verbena, ivy
geranium), and fillers to round out the mix (pansy,
phlox, salvia, alyssum, dianthus). |
Delve
into design. If you want to introduce an artistic dimension
to your container project, have
students think about the shapes, textures, and colors of potential container
plants and flowers. Do they envision a riot of color or soft, calming
hues? Some plants, like snapdragons are tall and spiky; others, like
impatiens, form round mounds; and plants like lobelia are long and trailing.
Coleus have striking foliage. Students might want a blend of plants
with complementary (or contrasting) qualities. Or, they might keep it
to just a couple of compelling companions: tall pole beans surrounded
by cascading nasturtiums, for instance. Older students can conduct research
on garden design to learn about basic principles before tackling their
own creations.
The
chart below features information on varieties,
container size, spacing, and light requirements for container-grown
vegetables, flowers, and herbs.
3. Preparing
Pots and Pampering Plants
Once your students have uncovered piles of free containers
and you know what kinds of plants you want to grow, you're ready
to dig in. Here are some things you'll need to consider:
Drain it! Containers need to
have some way to drain water away from plant roots. If a container
doesn't already have drainage holes, and they would be easy to
make, you can put in 1/2-inch holes at or near the bottom. If
holes are at the bottom, make sure there's space underneath for
the water to drain out. You might have to raise planting containers
up on bricks or blocks. If you put holes in the side an inch or
so from the bottom, extra water can remain in the reservoir. To
keep from losing soil if holes are large, line your containers
with newspaper or nylon mesh window screening, which will also
prevent pests from entering. If
your container has no drainage holes and it isn't practical to
make them, you can place a smaller container with drainage holes
inside the first one.
If
you have a container that won't hold onto soil or water well,
such as a woven basket or old boot with holey soles, you can line
it with thick plastic, bubble pack (used for shipping), or a plastic
milk jug or soda bottle, and punch drainage holes in the lining
with a nail or pencil. Wire hanging baskets lined with sphagnum
moss retain moisture, but also enable water to naturally drain.
Note:
If you're using containers that have previously been used
to grow plants or had unusual substances in them, clean them with
an environmentally friendly disinfectant or soak them in a solution
of 1 part bleach to 10 parts warm water before planting.
Provide
mixed media. Your
precious plants should thrive in a soil mix that drains well,
retains moisture like a sponge, and offers support and nutrients.
Garden soil is generally too heavy for container plants and may
contain diseases or pests that could get out of hand. (But that
shouldn't stop your young scientists from experimenting with it!)
Your best bet is to buy a sterile potting or soilless mix or create
your own. Here are a few recipes:
-
1/3 potting
soil, 1/3 shredded peat moss, 1/3 perlite
-
1 part
potting soil and 2 parts organic matter (compost or peat moss).
For better drainage, you can add builder's sand or vermiculite.
-
16 quarts
sphagnum moss, 16 quarts vermiculite, 7 oz. bone meal, 3 oz.
blood meal, 3 oz. ground limestone (The last three ingredients
contain important nutrients that potting soil and organic matter
otherwise provide.)
Feed
'em and reap.
Don't be misled by that phrase. Plants actually produce their
own food
through photosynthesis. However, you'll need to provide mineral
nutrients via a water-soluble fertilizer every couple of weeks.
Some gardeners prefer to fertilize with a dilute solution every
other time they water. Others add a dry controlled-release fertilizer
at planting time and supplement it with liquid after a month or
so. Consider using organic
fertilizers such as compost or compost tea, fish emulsion, or
liquid seaweed.
Your keen observers may want to try some different fertilizers
and schedules, collect data, and try to explain their results.
Keep them moist and cool. Think
moist, not soggy. Plants dry out much more quickly in containers
than in the ground (and more quickly yet in porous containers).
How often your students have to water will depend on the nature
and size of their containers, plant types and sizes, and wind
and sun exposure. Don't be surprised if large container plants
need daily watering. The rule of thumb is to water when the soil
feels dry a couple of inches down. To wash away any buildup of
fertilizer salts, always water thoroughly until it drains out
the bottom.
In the heat
of the summer, your students may want to experiment with these
other tricks (or invent their own) to conserve moisture and keep
the soil (and thus, the roots) cool. Consider the following:
-
Mulch
container plants with compost, peat moss, or other organic materials.
-
Experiment
with water-holding polymers (weird granules that get jello-like
when wet), which hold a lot of moisture.
-
Group
containers so plants shade one another's roots.
-
Keep roots
cool by placing a container inside a larger one and fill the
space in between with peat moss or shredded paper, or make cardboard
collars around pots.
Surely, your
young scientists will devise other means of keeping precious container
plants cool, well-watered, and otherwise content. Consider challenging
them to design a system for ensuring that plants have enough water
to manage through long weekends. They might, for instance, run a
cotton wick (such as a mop strand) from a water-filled container
up through the bottom holes in a pot, just beneath the roots.
Special
Container Projects (next page) >>
A
Few Good (Container) Candidates
|
| Vegetable |
Good
Container
Varieties
|
Container
Size
|
Final
Plant Spacing (inches)
|
Light
Requirement
|
Minimum
Soil
Depth
(inches)
|
| Beans,
Bush |
Provider
Tender Crop
Top Crop
|
Medium
|
2
to 3
|
sun
|
6
|
| Beets |
Little Mini Ball
Early Red Ball
Little Egypt |
Medium
|
2
to 3
|
sun
|
6
|
| Broccoli |
DeCicco
Green Comet
Green Valiant
|
large
|
single
plant
|
sun
|
10
|
| Carrots |
Thumbelina
Minicor
Royal Nantes
|
small/medium
|
1
|
sun
|
8
|
| Cucumbers |
Early Pik
Bush Pickle
Spacemaster |
large
|
14
to 18
|
sun
|
10
|
| Eggplant |
Slim Jim
Pirouette
Black Beauty |
large
|
single
plant
|
sun
|
10
|
Lettuce
(any variety) |
Salad Bowl
Buttercrunch
Ruby |
medium
|
4
to 6
|
partial
shade
|
6
|
| Onion |
Sweet Spanish
Tokyo Long White
Any onion sets |
small
|
2
to 3
|
partial
shade
|
8
|
| Pepper |
Ace
Sweet Banana
Super Chile (hot) |
large
|
single
plant
|
sun
|
8
|
| Potato |
Red Pontiac
Yellow Finn
Butterfinger |
large
|
single
plant
|
sun
|
start
with 10" of soil in 30" deep container |
| Radish |
Easter Egg
Cherry Belle
Icicle |
small
|
1
|
partial
shade
|
4
|
| Summer
Squash |
Gold Rush
Scallopini
Roly Poly
|
large
|
single
plant
|
sun
|
10
|
| Swiss
Chard |
Bright Lights
Fordhook Giant
Silverado |
medium
|
4
to 6
|
partial
shade
|
8
|
| Tomato |
Early Girl
Superboy
Sun Gold
Tiny Tim
(dwarf)
Patio
(dwarf)
Tumbling Tom
(for baskets)
|
|
single
plant
|
sun
|
12
8
|
Winter
Squash
(Use bush types) |
Bush Delicata
Cream of the Crop
Butterbush
|
large
|
single
plant
|
sun
|
10
|
| Herbs:
They do well in window boxes or containers mixed with veggies
and flowers, or in their own container groupings. Try herbs like
mints and oregano in hanging baskets. Explore some or all of these
options: basil, chives, mints, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage,
summer savory, marjoram, tarragon, and thyme. |
| Annual
flowers: Those with shallow
root systems will thrive best in containers. Try alyssum, coleus,
geranium, impatiens, lobelia, marigold, nasturtium, pansy, petunia,
salvia, snapdragon, thunbergia, verbena, zinnia, dusty miller,
and short types of cosmos. Dwarf varieties of sunflowers, such
as Teddy Bear and Big Smile, make wonderful container statements! |
|
Bulbs: Plant spring-flowering bulbs in fall. Place
containers in a cool (35-40°F) dark spot for 8 to 15 weeks.
You can bury them outside under sand, ground bark, or other organic
material. Try crocus, daffodil, hyacinth, or tulip. Summer-flowering
bulbs don't require a chilling period. Instead, if you want to
keep them going after their first season, you need to provide
a dry storage period. Consider caladium, calla lily, dahlia, short
gladiolus, tuberous begonia. |
| Perennials:
In warm
climates, perennials in containers will require division after
a few seasons. In cold climates, containers need lots of winter
protection from the cold. Try aster, coral
bell, coreopsis, daylily, compact delphinium, gaillardia,
lavender,
mum,
primrose, yarrow, more. If you're ambitious, you
might even try growing small trees (e.g., lemon) or shrubs in
large containers. |

Copyright©
2003 National Gardening Association
|
|
Contents
Pg.
1: Container Gardens
Background
Considering
Creative
Containers
Choosing
Plants and Schemes
Preparing
Pots and
Pampering Plants
Plants
for Container Gardens
Pg. 2: Curriculum Connections
Five Container Projects
Cultivating
Inquirers
Creative
Container
Contest
Pg.
3: Resources
Web Sites We Like
Books
Container
Gardening Tools
Related
Articles
Sowing
and Growing Sans Soil
Growing
Classroom Herbs
Get
Wet with a
Classroom Pond
Making
a Water Garden
In a Tub
Container
Tomatoes
Designing Gardens?
Garden
Mosaics filled
with actual school garden plans, stories of how students participated
in the design process, how-to
information, and resources. You'll find details in our Gardening
with Kids Store.
|