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This month . . .


Gardening in Containers
Growing in Small and Soilless Spaces

So, you have more asphalt than soil in your schoolyard; students who, because of physical challenges, cannot easily access your outdoor garden; or simply little growing space. Consider what cool containers filled with vibrant colors, living lunches, or ethnic plantings can do for school entrances, classroom windows, or a corner of the community — not to mention, the curriculum.

Your students certainly wouldn't be the first to try their hands at confining garden plants. Historically, evidence abounds of plants perched in pots, but perhaps the most famous example is the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, built by King Nebuchadnezzar II in the sixth century B.C. near modern-day Baghdad. These immense gardens were not actually hanging, but consisted of a daunting number of container gardens cascading from a terraced hillside.

We're not suggesting anything nearly so elaborate. Even the smallest outdoor nook can sport a thriving crop of vegetables, herbs, and flowers in containers. With some creative thinking and recycled materials from baskets to old shoes, your students can design special theme plantings, entice butterflies and other insect visitors, or create products such as hanging fragrance gardens or "patriotic" baskets to sell or donate.

Unlike conventional gardens where plants are, well, rooted in place, containers offer flexibility; you can move them to meet your students' needs or the plants' needs. And b
ecause plants in containers depend, in large part, on the gardener to meet their needs, they can inspire a variety of student-designed growing investigations.

Here we share the essentials for growing in containers. The Curriculum Connections section features some sample container projects and offers ideas for making container culture an investigative learning experience. The Resources section describes Web sites, books, and container gardening tools to help you dig deeper.



Cultivating Container Gardens

Before you and your charges launch in, discuss your container-growing goals. You might, for instance, hope to make gardening more accessible to students with physical challenges by building tall wooden planters or placing containers on tables or benches. Do you want to grow vegetables to complement a nutrition unit, raise creatively potted plants to sell or donate to the community, or beautify a courtyard or flagpole area? Your answers to these questions will help guide the project.

Materials

Containers of various sizes, potting mix, fertilizer

1. Considering Creative Containers

Plants emerging from terra-cotta or plastic pots, windowboxes, or hanging baskets are common refrains, and they make great growing vessels. But let's also think outside the box. Practically any type of container can be used to grow plants as long as it holds soil, can drain water, and is large enough to accommodate the plants you're growing. You are only limited by your imaginations and access to such places as attics, garages , and recycling centers. Consider these planter possibilities: buckets, tubs, beach pails, ceramic bowls, teapots, stacks of old tires, crocks, baskets, ceramic flue tiles, half wooden barrels, crates, sinks and bathtubs, toys (football helmet, dump truck, wagon). Better yet, have your students brainstorm their own list. Here are some things to consider when choosing containers:

The larger the container, the larger the plant (or number of plants) you can grow to maturity.
Take vessels for veggies. A half barrel planter can accommodate large tomatoes, squash, or eggplant, with room to spare for small crops such as carrots or lettuce. Five-gallon containers are fine for dwarf tomatoes, peppers, beans, and other vegetables and herbs. You can raise a mini salad or herb garden in an 18-inch (diameter) pot. Soil depth is also important. Deep-rooted plants like tomatoes need at least 12 inches of soil, but radishes can get by with as little as 4 inches. Windowboxes should be at least 9 inches deep. (See the chart, below, for more on container sizes.)

Think about drainage and porosity when you choose containers. For plants to have healthy roots, soil needs to drain well. If a container lacks holes or other methods for drainage, water can build up and roots can smother. On the other hand, if a container dries out too quickly, plants can suffer. Because porous materials, such as unglazed terra-cotta and wood, dry out faster than materials like plastic, they have to be watered more often, but they have the advantage of keeping plants from getting waterlogged. (Large containers of either type retain moisture better than smaller ones.) The materials you choose may depend on your climate, the plants you're growing, and your willingness to water.

Note: Avoid using containers made of pressure-treated wood, which is impregnated with toxic chemicals that can harm plants and people. If you build your own wooden boxes, use rot resistant wood, such as cedar, or treat your container with an exterior grade paint or opaque stain to protect it from rotting.

2. Choosing Plants and Schemes

What do you envision spilling out of your containers? Incredible edibles? Eye-appealing creations with complementary colors, textures, and forms? What about theme gardens such as the following?

  • a barrel full of salad with multiple colors of leaf lettuce, a bush cucumber, a dwarf patio tomato, and some herbs
  • a tomato sauce wheel barrow sporting a dwarf tomato plant in the center, herbs such as oregano and basil on the sides, and onions between the herbs
  • a scented hanging basket with nicotiana, heliotrope, lavender, and geraniums
  • a series of terra-cotta pots featuring an ethnic garden such as an Asian planting of greens, radishes, cucumbers, eggplants, and scallions
Here are some points to ponder as you plan:

Think small.
When perusing seed racks, packets, and catalogs, have your young detectives identify words and phrases that fit the small-space bill: compact, bush (especially with squash varieties), for containers, tiny, dwarf, and so on.

Consider climate.
Make sure to pay attention to planting dates based on your climate and frost-free period as you would with any outdoor garden. The benefit of containers is that you can move them in or under cover if frost or cold temperatures threaten (assuming they're not too heavy).

Select for sunlight. Choose plants according to the amount of sun available in your prospective container garden location. Most vegetable and herb plants you're likely to grow need at least six hours of sunlight each day. Leafy vegetables such as spinach, cabbage, and lettuce can tolerate a bit more shade; flowers vary. Check catalogs, seed packets, and the chart below for sunlight requirements. (If students experiment by moving containers to maximize their daily sunlight, they'll also learn something about the relationship between the Earth and the sun!)

Consider companions
. Plan to put plants with similar needs (e.g., sun, shade, water, or fertilizer) in a given container. You might also grow deep-rooted plants with shallow-rooted ones because the combination will make better use of nutrients and water.

Think about going vertical! Some schools, particularly those in urban areas, have saved space and created delightful nooks by growing container plants vertically. Consider creating garden vessels for vining plants such as pole beans, cucumbers, gourds, morning glory, clematis, sweet potato vine, star jasmine, or passion flower. Challenge students to create a trellis or supports and to figure out how to keep an upright plant jungle well-watered and fed. Do they notice any patterns in how plants climb or how tendrils function? Can they coax the plants to change direction?

Hangers On
When planning hanging flower baskets, think about upright flowers for the center (calendula, coleus, geranium, marigold, and zinnia, for instance), trailers to cascade downward (cascading petunia, lobelia, lantana, trailing fuchsia, verbena, ivy geranium), and fillers to round out the mix (pansy, phlox, salvia, alyssum, dianthus).
Delve into design. If you want to introduce an artistic dimension to your container project, have students think about the shapes, textures, and colors of potential container plants and flowers. Do they envision a riot of color or soft, calming hues? Some plants, like snapdragons are tall and spiky; others, like impatiens, form round mounds; and plants like lobelia are long and trailing. Coleus have striking foliage. Students might want a blend of plants with complementary (or contrasting) qualities. Or, they might keep it to just a couple of compelling companions: tall pole beans surrounded by cascading nasturtiums, for instance. Older students can conduct research on garden design to learn about basic principles before tackling their own creations.

The chart below features information on varieties, container size, spacing, and light requirements for container-grown vegetables, flowers, and herbs.

3.
Preparing Pots and Pampering Plants

Once your students have uncovered piles of free containers and you know what kinds of plants you want to grow, you're ready to dig in. Here are some things you'll need to consider:

Drain it! Containers need to have some way to drain water away from plant roots. If a container doesn't already have drainage holes, and they would be easy to make, you can put in 1/2-inch holes at or near the bottom. If holes are at the bottom, make sure there's space underneath for the water to drain out. You might have to raise planting containers up on bricks or blocks. If you put holes in the side an inch or so from the bottom, extra water can remain in the reservoir. To keep from losing soil if holes are large, line your containers with newspaper or nylon mesh window screening, which will also prevent pests from entering.
If your container has no drainage holes and it isn't practical to make them, you can place a smaller container with drainage holes inside the first one.

If you have a container that won't hold onto soil or water well, such as a woven basket or old boot with holey soles, you can line it with thick plastic, bubble pack (used for shipping), or a plastic milk jug or soda bottle, and punch drainage holes in the lining with a nail or pencil. Wire hanging baskets lined with sphagnum moss retain moisture, but also enable water to naturally drain.

Note: If you're using containers that have previously been used to grow plants or had unusual substances in them, clean them with an environmentally friendly disinfectant or soak them in a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts warm water before planting.

Provide mixed media. Your precious plants should thrive in a soil mix that drains well, retains moisture like a sponge, and offers support and nutrients. Garden soil is generally too heavy for container plants and may contain diseases or pests that could get out of hand. (But that shouldn't stop your young scientists from experimenting with it!) Your best bet is to buy a sterile potting or soilless mix or create your own. Here are a few recipes:

  • 1/3 potting soil, 1/3 shredded peat moss, 1/3 perlite
  • 1 part potting soil and 2 parts organic matter (compost or peat moss). For better drainage, you can add builder's sand or vermiculite.
  • 16 quarts sphagnum moss, 16 quarts vermiculite, 7 oz. bone meal, 3 oz. blood meal, 3 oz. ground limestone (The last three ingredients contain important nutrients that potting soil and organic matter otherwise provide.)

Feed 'em and reap. Don't be misled by that phrase. Plants actually produce their own food through photosynthesis. However, you'll need to provide mineral nutrients via a water-soluble fertilizer every couple of weeks. Some gardeners prefer to fertilize with a dilute solution every other time they water. Others add a dry controlled-release fertilizer at planting time and supplement it with liquid after a month or so. Consider using organic fertilizers such as compost or compost tea, fish emulsion, or liquid seaweed. Your keen observers may want to try some different fertilizers and schedules, collect data, and try to explain their results.

Keep them moist and cool. Think moist, not soggy. Plants dry out much more quickly in containers than in the ground (and more quickly yet in porous containers). How often your students have to water will depend on the nature and size of their containers, plant types and sizes, and wind and sun exposure. Don't be surprised if large container plants need daily watering. The rule of thumb is to water when the soil feels dry a couple of inches down. To wash away any buildup of fertilizer salts, always water thoroughly until it drains out the bottom.

In the heat of the summer, your students may want to experiment with these other tricks (or invent their own) to conserve moisture and keep the soil (and thus, the roots) cool. Consider the following:

  • Mulch container plants with compost, peat moss, or other organic materials.
  • Experiment with water-holding polymers (weird granules that get jello-like when wet), which hold a lot of moisture.
  • Group containers so plants shade one another's roots.
  • Keep roots cool by placing a container inside a larger one and fill the space in between with peat moss or shredded paper, or make cardboard collars around pots.
Surely, your young scientists will devise other means of keeping precious container plants cool, well-watered, and otherwise content. Consider challenging them to design a system for ensuring that plants have enough water to manage through long weekends. They might, for instance, run a cotton wick (such as a mop strand) from a water-filled container up through the bottom holes in a pot, just beneath the roots.

Special Container Projects (next page) >>

A Few Good (Container) Candidates
Vegetable
Good Container
Varieties
Container Size
Final Plant Spacing (inches)
Light
Requirement
Minimum Soil
Depth
(inches)
Beans, Bush Provider
Tender Crop
Top Crop
Medium
2 to 3
sun
6
Beets Little Mini Ball
Early Red Ball
Little Egypt
Medium
2 to 3
sun
6
Broccoli

DeCicco
Green Comet
Green Valiant

large
single plant
sun
10
Carrots

Thumbelina
Minicor
Royal Nantes

small/medium
1
sun
8
Cucumbers Early Pik
Bush Pickle
Spacemaster
large
14 to 18
sun
10
Eggplant Slim Jim
Pirouette
Black Beauty
large
single plant
sun
10
Lettuce
(any variety)
Salad Bowl
Buttercrunch
Ruby
medium
4 to 6
partial shade
6
Onion Sweet Spanish
Tokyo Long White
Any onion sets
small
2 to 3
partial shade
8
Pepper Ace
Sweet Banana
Super Chile (hot)
large
single plant
sun
8
Potato Red Pontiac
Yellow Finn
Butterfinger
large
single plant
sun
start with 10" of soil in 30" deep container
Radish Easter Egg
Cherry Belle
Icicle
small
1
partial shade
4
Summer Squash Gold Rush
Scallopini
Roly Poly
large
single plant
sun
10
Swiss Chard Bright Lights
Fordhook Giant
Silverado
medium
4 to 6
partial shade
8
Tomato

Early Girl
Superboy
Sun Gold
Tiny Tim
(dwarf)
Patio (dwarf)
Tumbling Tom
(for baskets)

large

medium

single plant
sun
12

8
Winter Squash
(Use bush types)
Bush Delicata
Cream of the Crop
Butterbush
large
single plant
sun
10
Herbs: They do well in window boxes or containers mixed with veggies and flowers, or in their own container groupings. Try herbs like mints and oregano in hanging baskets. Explore some or all of these options: basil, chives, mints, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, summer savory, marjoram, tarragon, and thyme.
Annual flowers: Those with shallow root systems will thrive best in containers. Try alyssum, coleus, geranium, impatiens, lobelia, marigold, nasturtium, pansy, petunia, salvia, snapdragon, thunbergia, verbena, zinnia, dusty miller, and short types of cosmos. Dwarf varieties of sunflowers, such as Teddy Bear and Big Smile, make wonderful container statements!
Bulbs: Plant spring-flowering bulbs in fall. Place containers in a cool (35-40°F) dark spot for 8 to 15 weeks. You can bury them outside under sand, ground bark, or other organic material. Try crocus, daffodil, hyacinth, or tulip. Summer-flowering bulbs don't require a chilling period. Instead, if you want to keep them going after their first season, you need to provide a dry storage period. Consider caladium, calla lily, dahlia, short gladiolus, tuberous begonia.
Perennials: In warm climates, perennials in containers will require division after a few seasons. In cold climates, containers need lots of winter protection from the cold. Try aster, coral bell, coreopsis, daylily, compact delphinium, gaillardia, lavender, mum, primrose, yarrow, more. If you're ambitious, you might even try growing small trees (e.g., lemon) or shrubs in large containers.


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Copyright© 2003 National Gardening Association

 

Contents

Pg. 1: Container Gardens

Background

Considering Creative
Containers

Choosing Plants and Schemes

Preparing Pots and
Pampering Plants

Plants for Container Gardens


Pg. 2: Curriculum Connections

Five Container Projects


Cultivating Inquirers

Creative Container
Contest



Pg. 3: Resources

Web Sites We Like

Books

Container Gardening Tools


Related Articles

Sowing and Growing Sans Soil

Growing Classroom Herbs

Get Wet with a
Classroom Pond

Making a Water Garden
In a Tub

Container Tomatoes


Designing Gardens?

Garden Mosaics filled with actual school garden plans, stories of how students participated in the design process, how-to information, and resources. You'll find details in our Gardening with Kids Store.